Mosca’s Restaurant worth the drive time

For the past several years, I keep hearing mixed reviews about the venerable Italian roadside restaurant, Mosca’s Restaurant.

Most people seem to recall the restaurant but I discovered that very few had actually been recently.

I am pleased to say reports of the demise of Mosca’s are quite premature. Mosca’s is alive, well, vibrant and still providing the same great food in the same familiar location.

The restaurant opened in 1946 on U.S. Hwy. 90 in Avondale.

I first started dining there in the late 1970s, when Mosca’s was touted as one of New Orleans’ top restaurants – despite its Avondale address. (Mosca’s is located approximately 16 miles west of the Huey P. Long Bridge.) Although it sat off the Big Easy, the place was always packed.

We were such frequent visitors that my family knew Gus and Johnny Mosca on a first-name basis. It always helped to ease the wait to dine.

Before this past year, I had not visited the storied restaurant since about 1985. This dining establishment has changed very little. It is in the same wooden building in Avondale, with the same wood floors and basic, but functional, tables and chairs. Johnny Mosca still greets the guests and oversees the operations and, amazingly, the place still looks the same.

A jukebox still sits to the right as you enter, playing the legendary sounds of the Rat Pack.

Mosca’s is still a cash-only business. But they have added an ATM machine to aid diners who forgot the policy.

Also, it is still open on evenings only, from 5:30-9:30 pm. They do accept reservations on Tuesday through Friday, but do NOT on Saturday nights.

Our visit to Mosca’s was on a “no reservations” Saturday. We arrived at approximately 6 p.m., placed our name on the dining list and were seated around 7:30 p.m. Be forewarned that when you go to Mosca’s on a Saturday night, you should anticipate the wait.

The dining experience at Mosca’s is about family and close friends. The wait takes time and the meal will too, so go with people that you know well or want to know well because you will have plenty of time to converse. We recommend that you go with a group; I generally try to have five or six people with me. That way, your entire table can experience more of the culinary delights.

We ordered two large Italian crab salads ($15.50 each) for the table to share. The salad is a classic iceberg lettuce salad served in a large bowl, soaked liberally in Italian dressing, with olives and mounds of crabmeat. They do offer an alternative Italian salad sans crabmeat but, frankly, I don’t see the point.

The entrées are where Mosca’s truly excels. We ordered Spaghetti Bordelaise ($12), Shrimp Mosca ($29), Oysters Mosca ($31) and a whole Chicken A La Grande ($28). Entrees are brought to the table on platters, making it easy for you to serve the preferred portions.

The selections are mired in time, as the restaurant has perfected its preparation of these items to an art form. The consistency of these dishes is unparalleled. The Spaghetti Bordelaise I ordered in 1979 is the same dish I ordered on this visit in 2008. It is simply string spaghetti wonderfully seasoned in oil, butter and garlic.

The Chicken A La Grande is a whole chicken sautéed with rosemary and (secret) Italian seasonings, whole cloves of garlic and white wine.

The Oysters Mosca, named for and created in this very kitchen, can best be described as a baked oyster casserole, containing fresh Louisiana oysters – again seasoned with Mosca’s own Italian seasonings and breadcrumbs.

The Shrimp Mosca is a selection of large Louisiana shrimp in the shell, sautéed with Italian seasonings and white wine.

This smorgasbord of culinary delights is further enhanced by dipping (better yet – soaking) the bread that accompanies meals in the various sauces. I must admit that I enjoy dipping but it is almost sinful to leave any drop behind.

So if you are dining on a Saturday night, sopping up that great juice can be a precursor to your Sunday morning act of contrition. This is true even for the whole cloves of garlic, which often can bring out the competitive juices between dining companions for the last remaining clove. After all, this is about dining with family and close friends, so a little excess in the garlic department should be allowed.

Mosca’s is a bit out of the way, but we believe it is worth the drive and provides a dining experience that will create good memories well into the future.

Mosca’s Restaurant 4137 Hwy. 90, Avondale (504) 436-8950 Hours Tuesday-Saturday – 5:30. – 9 p.m. Reservations not required. Plenty of parking. Credit cards accepted. Attire: casual