Gumbo contributor partakes in rodeo, nabs unique catch
July 11, 2013
Beulah Helena Carlos Dollar
July 16, 2013
Judging by the parking lot at Tampico Mexican Restaurant & Cantina, the Bayou Vista eatery should be the bomb.
But parking lots can sometimes be deceiving.
For years, I’ve listened to my St. Mary friends brag about Tampico’s Tex-Mex cuisine and memorable margaritas. “You’ve got to give it a try,” they’d chide. “You’ll never go anywhere else.”
So, one Friday night in June, we took the drive, opting to bypass the restaurant’s Victor II Boulevard site for the sister spot a few minutes down the road just off U.S. Highway 90. Red letters on a white background sign announce the restaurant’s presence. After passing our turn, it took some finagling through damaged back lots, across a former gas station lot and around a couple of curbs to reach Tampico. Surprisingly, we weren’t the only vehicles taking that route, either.
The parking lot was packed, usually a sure sign we are about to experience a meal for the record books.
Inside, the hostess studied the seating chart like she was readying for a final exam. Finally, we were seated a few steps away in a combination dining/bar area. The place was abuzz with conversation, as diners at the dozen or so tables enjoyed their meals, while steps away, bar patrons sipped Coronas and frozen cocktails.
The turnover was non-stop. As soon as guests left their table, another family or group was seated. The frantic pace never slowed through the meal. The noise-factor didn’t either, unfortunately.
Our waitress was quick on the scene to take our drink orders, and chips and salsa were soon delivered. The bean dip we ordered along with our drinks, however, didn’t arrive until moments before our food.
It’s well worth mentioning that Tampico’s salsa leans on the hot side. Missing was the cilantro flavor I look forward to enjoying in my salsa, or maybe it was just overpowered by the chunks of jalapeno. The heat proved too much for my guests.
After debating trying the fajitas or even nachos, I settled on a Taco Dinner ($11.95), which is comprised of three beef (or chicken) taco served with the traditional rice and beans. The flavors were fresh, and there was no skimping on beef in the tacos. I blame myself for playing it safe here. After smelling a neighboring table’s fajitas, I realized where the mesquite grilling Tampico’s is known for is to be found.
The same could be said for the Beef Enchiladas ($12.95) one guest ordered. The three corn tortillas were stuffed to the hilt with the same ground beef used in the tacos and then smothered with Tampico’s homemade enchilada sauce and topped with cheese. Spanish rice and refried beans accompany the dish.
It’s a good dish, but not as memorable as we’d hoped.
The Tampico Special ($16.95) that our Tex-Mex connoisseur ordered was to be the true test. Featuring one of everything – an enchilada, chalupa, taco, tamale, cheese tostada and beans and rice – it is touted among the house specialties.
The tamale, filled with shredded beef and covered with cheese sauce, and the tamale, filled with cheese and onions, received the highest marks. The meal arrived lukewarm, but given the wait and the tremendous crowd, having the food rewarmed would have taken more time than we were willing to spend in the loud bar area. (A bathroom trip revealed a second dining area, but it was just as packed and equally as loud.)
Also, the Tampico Special is served over two platters, something the waitress didn’t mention. So after receiving half the meal, my guest was left wondering what happened to the rest of the order. Ten minutes later, our waitress reappeared promising the other half shortly. That was a first for the Gumbo Guru – entrée part one?
For dessert, we tried the Sopapillas ($4.50) – eight flaky puffs of pastry served with honey. Sprinkled with cinnamon, the honey melted right in to the pastries. Hot, they were delicious.
Based on the booming business we witnessed on this visit, locals clearly love Tampico. The margaritas are popular – they’re even touted on Facebook.
Tampico Mexican Restaurant & Cantina has been offering traditional and Tex-Mex cuisine in south Louisiana since 1962. It operates two locations in St. Mary Parish.
