Houma bagels make Big Apple grade
August 30, 2013
Lunch and the quest for the proper po’boy in T’bonne
August 30, 2013
It’s hard to believe two longtime locals have never crossed Copeland’s of New Orleans’ threshold.
At that shocking news, this month’s Guru destination was decided.
I’d spent weeks talking the place up, reminding my guests the late Al Copeland – the brains behind Popeye’s Famous Fried Chicken – created the operation. Today, his offspring continue the tradition of serving fantastic south Louisiana cuisine in a fine dining setting.
So, with great anticipation, we visited the restaurant on a Sunday evening. With very few diners present – no more than a dozen tables had guests – we expected attentive service, usually a Copeland’s staple.
But that wasn’t the case, sadly.
Copeland’s manages to be both inviting – comfortable wooden booths, plenty of ambient lighting, overstuffed sofas in the waiting area and a tempting display case of desserts that catch your eye upon entering – and family friendly. It’s equally ideal for entertaining friends, a date or a business acquaintance. And you can count on great food.
We agreed to split an Onion-Mum ($7.99) and I had a small bowl of Baked Potato Soup ($4.99).
The mum – dubbed by Copeland’s menu as the “ORIGINAL” Onion-Mum – was accompanied by a tangy Rosette sauce, a spicy horseradish/mayo combination. Very well seasoned and fried to a golden crisp flower, it was eye candy for onion lovers. Underneath that yummy fried coating, however, was one tough onion. Don’t get me wrong, it was still good, but a knife was required to coax the onion into bite sizes. It was not at all the fresh, sweet onion I’d enjoyed on past visits.
My soup arrived lukewarm. The flavors were inviting – fresh pepper, onion and seasonings. I asked our waitress what seasonings were included. She shrugged, said, “I dunno,” and walked away. I was a bit taken aback, but was still hoping my friends’ first time experience would be enjoyable, didn’t make a scene.
The soup du jour packs a slow punch so more tea was required. Several trips to our table later – and after at least three repeated requests – our waitress remembered my refill.
The lull between our appetizers and meal was long. It allowed us time to visit, but it was much too long given the relatively empty dining room. When the entrees did arrive, my guests were ready to dig in.
Copeland’s recent addition of small tasting plates – hot and cold dishes are available – are ideal for the adventurous who like to try something new without ordering a platter of food.
One guest opted for the Steak Labouchere ($7.99), seared prime sirloin steak prepared in garlic butter and tossed angel hair pasta coated with Labouchere sauce. The creamy mushroom sauce includes bell peppers and spices. Teamed with the perfectly seasoned steak, the smaller serving was filling and delicious.
The only drawback: it was lukewarm.
While waiting for her food to be warmed, she nibbled on an Apple Almond Blue Salad ($7.99). The salad includes fresh apple, toasted almonds, crumbled Bleu cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and red onion atop mixed greens and covered with a honey balsamic vinaigrette. The salad earned a thumbs up.
The second entrée, Catfish Acadiana ($12.99) – golden fried catfish served with a creamy shrimp butter sauce – which was accompanied by corn macque choux and a house salad.
Again, the dish arrived lukewarm. Both it and the Steak Labouchere required reheating.
Incidentally, the kitchen staffer who returned our food, when asked about ingredients, admitted she was uncertain but quickly went to the chef and returned with a response. Far more Copeland’s-esque service.
The Catfish Acadiana was fried to perfection and delicious, according to my guest. The corn macque choux, a Cajun-take on a Native American dish, is a combination of onions, peppers, corn and butter spiced in a fashion that would have made Al Sr. proud.
I ordered my trust Copeland’s favorite: classic Andouille Sausage and Red Beans and Rice ($7.99). As always, it scored big. Only complaint … wait for it … it was lukewarm.
What can I say, I’m a red beans and rice fan. Room temperature or steaming hot, I’m good.
The meal ended on a high note – we shared a slice of Copeland’s signature White Chocolate Raspberry Cheesecake ($5.99). With a hot cup of coffee, the creamy cheesecake was delightful.
To be fair, I suspect our waitress, not the kitchen, was to blame for many of the night’s shortfalls. To test that theory, I returned to Copeland’s for lunch a week later with my teenage daughter.
The place was packed, but we were quickly seated and served. The food – Chicken Alfredo and, you guessed it, red beans and rice, arrived piping hot and simply delicious. Our waitress, Elizabeth, was friendly and attentive. It was quintessential Copeland’s, the way Al Sr.’s offspring intended.
$12.99
$7.99
$7.99
